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She moved from Sweden to Los Angeles the day after the latter was released online. The department-store chain is phasing out gender-based signs to better reflect a more gender-neutral culture.“People always get more surprised by that, because you’d think Sweden is more edgy or more fashion,” she says. Selfridges also made waves earlier this year by launching its Agender pop-up concept inside London department stores.Menswear designer Loris Diran, who describes his aesthetic as “hypermasculine,” had his initial doubts about casting Dove laid to rest as soon as he saw her in his collection.“Rain Dove happens to be a woman who came into my models call and wore the collection perfectly,” he says.Despite her telling the Two years later, Sailors seems not so much hurt by such claims as she is bored by them.“It’s not essential to even call it menswear or womenswear anymore,” she says while the grooming guy brushes her thick brows up and contours her cheeks into ravines that would make Olivier Rousteing envious.This is before you even consider the mainstream pop-culture power of transgender narratives both in real life (Caitlyn Jenner, Laverne Cox) and onscreen (But then New York Fashion Week: Men’s 2015 wedged itself into the crowded international fashion-week calendar this past July.If the week followed conventional gender divisions, it also defied expectations.

It’s easy to forget that it’s not just the designer’s vision that’s played out on runways and in ad campaigns.Sailors’ first professional shoot was with Bruce Weber in 2001 at age 19.But it wasn’t until 2013 that she careered into headlines for cutting off her long blond hair to start modeling menswear.Stella Tennant modeled Givenchy menswear on the runway in 2012, a year before Sailors’ husband, Adam Santos-Coy, filmed her haircut video (which has since racked up more than 280,000 views).Comme des Garçons and Rick Owens have also been provocateurs of agender aesthetics, and some of fashion’s most exciting niche brands, like Eckhaus Latta and Gypsy Sport, have made gender-blurring an integral part of their message.

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